The devil’s in the details but what defines the perimeters of quality, calibre, and craftsmanship? One interpretation could be obvious design details, signature motifs or hours of work put in from highly-trained ateliers. Or perhaps the visual details that go into a piece — be it the fabrics, stitching, prints or manipulation of leather. The other is a bespoke, one-of-a-kind quality that is not only individual to the Maison but hard to replicate. In fashion terms, this is referred to as the “savoir-faire” or the technical know-how that goes into the creative process of crafting bespoke pieces. LUXUO examines different variations of craftsmanship and calibre through a range of latest offerings from luxury’s biggest fashion houses.
Louis Vuitton The GO-14 Bag
The GO-14 is the culmination of design prowess and artisanal ingenuity. An iteration of one of Nicolas Ghesquière’s first designs — hence its coded name: Ghesquière October 2014 — the bag made its debut at Ghesquière’s first collection as women’s artistic director at Louis Vuitton. The malletage motif brings in the spirit of the Maison’s history for trunk-making, referencing the crisscrossing pattern pads on the inside of trunks.
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Today, the GO-14 comes in the form of a padded lambskin bag, covered in soft malletage with overstitching highlighting the design’s curves and “cushiony” feel. The GO-14 is a feat of skill and is a testament to the brand’s thriving heritage. The creative process requires more than 20 different steps, including the utmost meticulousness on the patina to ensure a satin or toasted finish and to perfect the colour’s subtle gradations. A highly precise technique for depositing the 17-metre-long trim is also needed for the rounded malletage of each GO-14. A more complex savoir-faire is required as compared to traditional quilting. The creation of the GO-14 requires the best of Louis Vuitton’s ateliers’ expertise.
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Valentino Altorilievo
Valentino clues us into their extraordinary savoir-faire of Italian craftsmanship with the unveiling of the Valentino Altorilievo. Altorilievo is a new technique named by Valentino that sees fabric sculpted into three-dimensional creations creating naturalistic forms like Baroque foliage, fruit, flowers and animals that frame the body. The technique is a form of honouring women — built around the body, the wearer becomes an active participant in its design.
Prints executed in grisaille echo these forms as fabrics are sliced away to reveal skin. Throughout the collection, prints of pomegranates, pineapples and flowers usher in a “contemporary renaissance”. On other looks, mythological elements like gryphons and sirens offer a new perspective, while their classic geometrical shapes transform into all-over patterns.
Dior Gravity
Conceived by Kim Jones, Dior Gravity leather features the emblematic Dior Oblique motif. The fruit of excellent savoir-faire, this exceptional material sublimates a selection of models from the Dior Fall 2024 collection, such as the Messenger and the Weekender, as well as a belt and a cardholder.
These graphics are also sketched onto a number of refined shoes, including the B33 and B27 sneakers.
Gucci Horsebit 1953 Loafer
Originally presented in 1953, the Horsebit loafer embodies the essence of equestrian-inspired sophistication. Under Sabato De Sarno’s vision, the Horsebit 1953 loafer emerges as a testament to Gucci’s commitment to reimagining elegance for the modern era. The shoe seamlessly weaves together the past and present, showcasing the loafer’s evolution as a symbol of sporty, casual, and sensual elegance. The double ring and bar, first introduced during the late 1940s as a decorative emblem in Gucci’s collections, draws inspiration from the world of equestrianism — a beloved pursuit among the House’s discerning clientele.
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Ralph Lauren RL 888 Bag
Ralph Lauren’s RL 888 collection was named in honour of the brand’s flagship store at 888 Madison Avenue in New York City. The RL 888 Top Handle is inspired by the architecture of Ralph Lauren’s birthplace. Featuring a dual-compartment interior, a top handle, and a removable, adjustable crossbody strap accented by two polished keepers, each bag is exquisitely made by hand and individually constructed in Italy with the highest-quality materials.
Thirty-six pristine pieces of the finest Italian box calfskin are skillfully selected and hand-cut by Florentine artisans to create the body — its aniline finish and firm hand feel aids in the bag’s structured profile —while nappa lambskin serves as the lining. Embodying graceful function with luxurious form, the signature “RL” monogram is reimagined as a sculptural push-lock closure offered in palladium, brass, or champagne finishes. Additional touches, including subtle bombé filling at the flap and hand-painted edges, showcase Ralph Lauren’s commitment to fine details.
Giorgio Armani Bespoke Italian Tailoring
Giorgio Armani’s Made to Measure suits are a study in the fine art of tailoring, combining the world-famous Armani spirit with the exceptional quality of made-to-measure craftsmanship. “I realised that some of my clients wanted a unique product made especially for them. I decided to create a made-to-measure service that offers all the benefits of a tailor-made garment — unique fit, fabric, lining, buttons, and details. The service blends tradition and modernity, combining the art of tailoring with the innovation of a contemporary design studio”, explains the designer. Since its launch, Giorgio Armani Made to Measure has attracted a growing clientele.
Originally only available in a select number of stores around the world, the service can now be found in almost every Giorgio Armani boutique, run by highly specialised dedicated staff. Every element of a suit is meticulously designed from the the lining and style of button to specific silhouette, the type of lapel, pocket positions, single or double-breasted fastening, and the option of a pleated or non-pleated trousers. The final garment is an exclusive suit customised to the customer’s specifications.
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