The incredibly popular H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar returns in a totally new iteration that is limited to 20 pieces, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition. Obviously, our interest has been piqued by the slew of special editions coming our way in Singapore to celebrate the 70th birthday of Sincere Fine Watches; this is a momentous occasion that holds great significance for many watch enthusiasts and collectors. The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is also of great interest, and not only because H. Moser & Cie happen to make a totally original sort of perpetual calendar. In this highly exclusive model, the brand has opted for a very handsome and technically challenging Grand Feu enamel dial.
While this story focuses on the dial (and case), it should be noted that the mechanical movement powering the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition is the tried-and-tested in-house HMC 808 manual-winding. That means the watch runs for a minimum of seven days on a full wind; features the iconic low-key calendar displays (as you can see here); and can be adjusted without worry at any time. In fact, these features are so recognizable that – alongside the fumé dial – the watch can only be a H. Moser & Cie. No brand name is necessary, and there is none on the dial, which is also a H. Moser & Cie hallmark and something the brand typical signals with the word Concept. Of course, the purple dial is deliciously text-free, bar a +/- indicator for the power reserve.
About that dial, we expect that it will be captivating and we think you will agree, once you discover exactly how it is made. That texture that your eyes may have made out comes from the gold base, which has been meticulously engraved to resemble hammered metal. Fine mineral particles are applied to this base, along with the appropriate pigments and water. It is much like applying glaze to pastry. On that note, this base is then fired in a kiln at a precise temperature to deliver the final dial. That engraved base poses a challenge because the raw materials must be applied as evenly as possible; the dial may crack in the firing process if the artisans are not careful. Each dial must be fired in the kiln between 10 and 12 times to achieve the signature fumé effect. H. Moser & Cie have left it to our imagination to wonder how many dials were sacrificed in the making of the 20 Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition watches.
Finally, there is the case to consider, which is in the Pioneer style. This means that an unusually delicate handmade dial has been combined with a robust sports case. The 42.8mm 18-carat red gold and black DLC-treated titanium case is, as a consequence, water-resistant to 120 metres. The titanium areas on the case middle feature the Pioneer signature vertical grooves, which stand out here thanks to the DLC treatment. Of course, the exhibition caseback is present, with the 70th anniversary logo of Sincere laser-engraved on it. The various features of the movement, including the leap year indicator of the perpetual calendar (a precious indication to the calendar complication enthusiast) are visible here. Other features of the Pioneer collection are accounted for here, including the open-worked leaf-style hands with SuperLuminova.
The entire series of 20 Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Concept MD Purple Enamel Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition are exclusive to Sincere Fine Watches.
The watch retails for SGD 130,000, including GST.
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