While it is not blatantly obvious, fragrances and scents highly contribute to how one presents themselves to the outside world. It is an invisible accessory that dates back to ancient times; it allows one to embrace self-expression and is an integral step in most people’s routines. The unique significance that comes along with fragrances is their ability to make lasting impressions, enhance personal appeal and act as a tool for self-expression — all through intangible olfactory senses.
Thus, the decision-making when it comes to perfume is very personal. The names of fragrances are highly significant, it gives the product a soul and identity, which allows the product to be more enticing to a potential buyer. From merely reading the name of a fragrance, one is able to evaluate their desire for it even before smelling it. Additionally, they play a deciding role when a consumer gathers options according to their preferences.
Fragrances are more complex and multidimensional as ever before, as we have seen especially in the last few years, with more frequent inclusions of unconventional notes combined with the olfactory staples of florals and musks. Perfume names now vary significantly — some adopt a very direct approach, simply naming the product according to the an object or a place the scent intends to replicate or an indirect approach that involves a scent that emulates olfactory characteristics of a certain object, atmosphere or place that an individual has experienced. While some fragrances take on an abstract approach, with scents intended to evoke feelings or ideas that do not have a clear definition or applicability to real life and is up to one’s personal interpretation. These different approaches are used to story-tell, convey a brand’s narrative or to invoke certain thoughts and emotions through intangible olfactory senses. Furthermore, these factors allow a brand to market to a certain consumer base and strengthen brand identity through the significance of complex or simple product names that can create the shock factor or appeal to mass markets. With this, LUXUO will analyse the significance and connection of fragrances and their names according to the categories: direct, indirect and abstract.
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Direct Connections
Marc Jacobs Splash Collection
Back in the early 2000s, designer Marc Jacobs released the first Splash collection which has since been re-relased and re-designed due to the popular demand following each release. The Splash collection consisted of unisex scents that intended to capture the essence of summer and its small joys. Each perfume had one-word names that directly conveyed the object it embodied like — Rain, Cotton, Pear and Cucumber. Each scent had multiple notes, all of which are conventionally pleasant and associated with smelling “fresh and clean”. Additionally the product was lightly coloured and was contained in a simple square glass bottle with subtle branding. The no-frills approach to naming the product in addition to not being not being overtly masculine or feminine, conveyed a sense of lighthearted-ness and simplicity which appealed to the mass market and largely contributed to the success of the collection.
Jo Malone
Jo Malone London is one of the most commonly known brands when it comes to perfume, with its extensive range, reasonable price points and its wide accessibility. Similar to the Marc Jacobs Splash Collection, the brand adopts a no-frills, gender-less approach when marketing and developing their products. Most Jo Malone colognes come in monochromatic packaging, with clear glass bottles and simple branding, conveying the product as unisex and suitable for everyday wear. The brand is straight-forward in naming each scent, typically combining the the top and the heart note like ” English Pear & Freesia”, “Lime Basil & Manderin” and “Wood Sage & Sea Salt”. Given that majority of the brand’s colognes come in the exact same packaging, the direct and straight-forward names aids a consumer’s decision-making process. A consumer is able to pick out scents according to personal preferences with just a short glance at a product’s name instead of taking the time to sample many different scents that may not appeal to them at all. Here, the direct naming of the Jo Malone fragrances, elevates the shopping experience of a potential consumer, taking away the overwhelming and indecisive feelings one may experience when choosing amongst a variety of perfumes.
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Indirect Connections
Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club
The Maison Margiela’s cult-favourite perfume line named “Replica” was inspired by the brand’s desire to replicate one’s fondest personal memories, the fragrances allowing a wearer to relive the magic of a potential time in their lives. While some of the Replica scents are relatively straight-forwards, scents like “Jazz Club” adopts a more indirect approach to emulate the distinct characteristics of a certain atmosphere. With the name “Jazz Club”, the brand intends to embody the intimate atmosphere of a New York jazz club, where the scent of whiskey and cigars fill the room. The ambiguous indirect name of the fragrance almost acts as an explanation as to why woody notes and gourmand notes are combined — given that jazz clubs are associated with alcohol, smooth jazz and elements of sensuality and darkness. Through the notes of rum absolute, vanilla beans, tobacco leaf and pink pepper, the olfactory characteristics work in tandem with the name to invoke a sense of nostalgia or embody a certain style associated with jazz clubs.
Killian Paris’ “Moonlight in Heaven”
Killian Paris is well-known for developing unique and bold scents inspired by founder Killian Hennessy’s life experiences. Inspiration is drawn from “A dazzling beam of pearlized light dances on the oceans belly, witnessed by two lovers who watch from a balcony draped in floating white opaque gauze that seems alive, responding to a warm wind that blows,” as per the Killian Paris website. The moon is represented with coconut, creamy mango and powdery jasmine notes, full rounded scents that embody the characteristics of the moon. The citrus-forward opening with grapefruit and lemon notes depict the shimmering effect the “Moonlight” aspect of the name, emulating the shimmering effect of moonlight in the night time. Along with some aquatic notes, these factors harmonise to create serene feelings of lightness and ease, words that one might associate with “Moonlight in Heaven”. The name also invokes a sense of wanderlust, fantasy and escapism, using the scent memory fragrance to transport the wearer to their personal paradise.
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Abstract Connections
Etat Libre d’Orange “You or Someone Like You”
Etat Libre d’Orange is famous for their unusual and abstract fragrances, typically using unconventional or thought-provoking names that leave interpretation up to the consumer. The “You or Someone Like you” is intended to embody the scent of what an “LA woman would wear”, based on a book of the same title by Chandler Burr. The book followed the story of an English-born Anne Rosenbaum who feels out of place in the fantastical atmosphere of Los Angeles. The fragrance was made with this character as the canvas, emulating the “smell of Hollywood Hills Captured” and possessing the characteristics of “coolly crisply English, covered in but untouched by the silver, materialistic movie industry, literary, somewhat removed.” The connection of the scent and its name is completely dictated by the interpretations of the wearer, as there is no real example of how the “Hollywood Hills” smell nor a “materialistic movie industry”. The cirtus-forward fragrance features notes of grapefruit, mint and bergamot amongst many others. Perhaps the fresh notes represent a fresh-faced individual striving to fit into a society as suggested also by the name “You or Someone Like you” or it could conversely be interpreted to display the idea of conformity in certain societies.
Asphalt Rainbow
Asphalt Rainbow draws inspiration from the “breaking the rules” attitude of global street art. Borrowing from the depictions of vibrant street art, the brand created a scent that is representative of “a roughed up rose that’s been hyper-coloured, torn apart and twisted on its head, then nailed to the wall for your sniffing pleasure”. Rose acts as the fragrance’s top note which is “distorted” and “morphed” by woody notes like wood, amber and asphalt, emulating the act of graffiti with untouched walls decorated with spray paint. From the name alone, one can only interpret that the scent is bold and may be indicative of urban culture and an aspect of a diverse mixture of notes. There is no standard scent of what global street art may smell like but with every individual comes their own perception of what the “breaking the rule attitude” would entail and what they may associate with art in urban culture. Thus, the fragrance and its connection to its name prompts conversation and thought, due to its ambiguous name.
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