The gift of jewellery has always been a symbol of love and affection due to its high value, lasting qualities and, of course, the beauty of materials like glowing gold and precious stones. Innovation, appearance and the opulence of jewellery are typically the stars of the show, with the eye-catching glisten of diamonds and the air of luxury and grandeur.
However, in addition to visual appeal, much more goes into creating a piece of jewellery; many houses incorporate meaningful stories and messages portrayed in intricate mechanisms in each collection. From securing mechanisms on a bracelet or necklace to interconnecting structures, these facets symbolise a jewellery house’s soul and reflect a storied past or message. Thus, to truly appreciate the craftsmanship and artistry of a piece of jewellery, it is essential to recognise the meaningful significance and connection between house mechanisms and the symbols behind their signature collections.
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Cartier: Love Collection
The Cartier Love Collection is one of history’s most distinct and recognisable collections. While it possesses timeless elegance and style, the famous piece is so much more than what meets the eye — its intriguing backstory and romantic significance. The Love bracelet was first unveiled in 1969 by Italian Jewellery designer Aldo Cipullo as a unisex “modern handcuff”.
What was unique about the Love bracelet was that it was secured with functional and decorative screws, designed to sit permanently on the wearer’s wrist. Given that it requires two people to secure the screws, the act of physically screwing on the bracelet signifies the permanence of enduring bonds and a symbol of love and commitment, hence a “modern handcuff”. The simplicity of the underlying romantic message is relatively evident due to its closure mechanism and permanence on the wearer. Since its invention, the Love collection has flourished into different variations of bracelets, necklaces and rings, which have become a worldwide success and an iconic fashion favourite.
Bvlgari: Serpenti Collection
The Bvlgari Serpenti collection has grown to be an icon in the world of jewellery, with its distinct features of winding coils and serpent head central to the brand’s identity. The modern-day interpretation of a serpent is villanised due to the Christian representation of a serpent as an evil entity in the Garden of Eden. On the other hand, in other eras and parts of the world like Greece, serpentine motifs and snake symbolism were associated with Asclepius, the God of Medicine and symbolised wisdom, fertility and rebirth. These positive characteristics were the main points of inspiration for Greek founder Sotirio Bulgari when he established the house in Rome in 1884.
The Bvlgari pieces were crafted with Tobogas, a flexible band of smooth, rounded spirals assembled without soldering. The slightly flexible and bouncy coils interlocked to conceal the inner structure, making them more comfortable yet appearing luxurious. This innovative approach connected harmoniously with the serpent motif, displaying the seductive allure of a serpent and the fluid shape of its body wrapping around the wearer.
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Boucheron: Question Mark Necklaces
In 1879, Frédéric Boucheron revolutionised the high jewellery world with his innovative clasp-free Question Mark necklace. The Question Mark necklaces were Boucheron’s gift to women, allowing them to slip the necklace on without further assistance. It symbolises a woman’s independence, freedom and empowerment, especially during a time of severe gender imbalance and restricted rights. The asymmetrical shape was also unusual during that time, which led it to be named the Point d’Interrogation — the Question Mark necklace. Furthermore, the uniqueness of this design highlights the Maison’s enduring ethos of innovation, which places focus on not only visual appeal but also meaningful values like emotion, the beauty of expression and the empowerment of women.
In addition to the embellishments of brilliant jewels and extravagant silhouettes, the Question Mark necklace was significantly innovative in that period, in incorporating a functional spring system without sacrificing the beauty of it. The Question Mark necklace has grown to be an integral part of Boucheron’s identity and is still an everlasting icon in the world of high jewellery.
Chaumet: Liens Collection
Chaumet’s Liens has been a long-time staple for the brand and is a commemorative piece to celebrate the linking of two people through a piece of sentimental jewellery. The Liens collection was first released in the 1780s, inspired by the love between Napoleon and Joséphine. The Liens collection is characterised by an “X” motif that is present on an extensive repertoire of stunning rings, necklaces and bracelets.
The “X” motif is displayed in interlocking links or bridge-like links, symbolising the seamless uniting of two individuals who love each other, conveying the “sincerity of a relationship, the evidence that seals two fates”. The thoughtful design also represents the enduring pledge of eternal love and unfailing faith through the symbolic “X” motif that is forever interlocked like the enduring love of familial and romantic bonds. Along with the timeless visual appeal of the Liens collection, its heartfelt sentiments speak to past, present and future generations, a perfect example of connection in a literal and metaphorical sense.
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Tiffany & Co. : Tiffany Lock Bracelets
The padlock motif has been synonymous with Tiffany & Co. for decades. The brand swapped functionality for design, in creating the padlock motif to display their interpretation of loves enduring protection. The underlying message of the design drew inspiration from the primary function of a lock, which is designed to “keep safe that which is cherished” and that it is a universal symbol of what matters most.
In 2023, the Tiffany Lock was released, and inspiration was drawn from Tiffany’s earliest roots in 1883. The bracelets were designed to be unisex, appearing minimalist yet modern and featuring a unique swivel closure that one must fully pull and turn the mechanism to fully open and close, similar to a conventional padlock. The stories past of Tiffany’s padlock jewellery date back to 1883, when a customer commissioned a brooch in the shape of a padlock for his wife, engraving the message, “Fide et Amore,” Latin for “With Faith and Love.” The Tiffany lock is presented as a modern and genderless iteration of the brand’s core DNA, appealing to fashion trends that are not overtly feminine or masculine. The Tiffany Lock bracelet comes in various sizes, allowing lovers to lock a padlock bracelet onto a wearer physically. The action itself is symbolic of eternal love and commitment.
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