When it comes to the acknowledgment of prolific fashion figures, Hollywood A-listers and household names often take center stage with styles that define their generation. However, the true essence of style can also come from subversive choices that go against the grain, resulting in the subtle influence of these lesser-known icons. In light of the recent passing of French actor and star of 20th-century international cinema, Alain Delon, LUXUO pays homage to these famous (albeit underrated) style icons and explores how they’ve reshaped the landscape of fashion.
Alain Delon: 50s Beatnik
Delon’s style during the 1950s contributed to the early development of the Beatnik movement — a fashion trend that embraced everyday, unpretentious clothing with a timeless quality. He helped popularise the use of casual pieces and denim that were the antithesis of the formal suits and hats that men were traditionally known for, thereby setting a precedent for future casual styles. He embodied the Beatnik era by donning white “wife beaters” (or white tank tops as they are now known), bomber jackets, and overshirts. The 50s were the era when men wore suits and hats. The Beatnik generation saw a rejection of society’s conventional styles of dress.
Monsieur Klein ou Rocco, le Guépard ou le Samouraï, Alain Delon a incarné des rôles légendaires, et fait rêver le monde. Prêtant son visage inoubliable pour bouleverser nos vies.
Mélancolique, populaire, secret, il était plus qu’une star : un monument français. pic.twitter.com/1JTqPfVo5n
— Emmanuel Macron (@EmmanuelMacron) August 18, 2024
His penchant for navy jumpers, crisp Plein Soleil linen pieces, and buttoned-up Oxford shirts encapsulated his modern take on French menswear solidifying his status as a debonair of his generation. Alain Delon was the style icon of his day because he effortlessly bridged the gap between classic sophistication and emerging casual trends, redefining modern masculinity and influencing fashion for years to come.
Peggy Moffitt: 60s Mod
When we think of a look that encapsulated the 60s, we may think of Twiggy or Mia Farrow. Peggy Moffitt also had a part to play in encapsulating the “Mod” fashion movement of the 1960s, characterised by bold geometric patterns, vibrant colours, and innovative designs. Her look was a perfect blend of youthful exuberance and avant-garde fashion. Her (at the time) controversial work with mentor Rudi Gernreich and her husband photographer William Claxton delivered provocative fashion images that were intended to be a political and cultural statement. She was described as “pioneering the freedom of the body from her very first photo shoot”. Alongside modeling, Moffitt made appearances in prominent fashion films, the likes of 1962’s “Blow-Up” in 1962 and 1966’s “Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?”.
Moffitt was known for her distinctive look, which often featured exaggerated shapes and striking, asymmetrical lines. Her iconic features included a dramatic bouffant hairstyle, wide-eyed makeup, and a penchant for mini skirts and shift dresses. Her legacy continues to this day with her own sixties-inspired sportswear and athleisure brand which is directly influenced by pieces worn by Moffitt.
Malcolm X: 60s Equality Movement
Malcolm X’s preference for well-tailored suits was a sartorial representation of dignity and respect like that of his human rights contemporary Martin Luther King. His sharp, professional appearance challenged stereotypes and conveyed that African Americans deserved respect and equality. This sartorial choice was a deliberate statement of self-respect and empowerment, aligning with his message of Black pride and self-sufficiency.
As a symbol of Black Empowerment Malcolm X distinguished himself as a figure of resistance and change and underlined his serious approach to the struggle for civil rights. People of colour — including black and brown communities — were still facing various forms of segregation particularly when entering professional spaces like universities and libraries. The tailored suits and classic style were not merely aesthetic choices but a form of visual resistance and a declaration of self-worth and cultural pride.
Shelley Duvall: 70s Eccentricity
Actress Shelley Duvall redefined beauty standards through her unique and unconventional appearance, which contrasted sharply with the traditional Hollywood notions of beauty and femininity. Her distinctive — often quirky features and natural appearance — stood in stark contrast to the glamorous and highly stylised beauty norms of her time, as seen with the likes of blonde beauties Farah Fawcett and Jane Fonda. In an industry dominated by conventional attractiveness, Duvall’s success demonstrated that beauty could be diverse and multifaceted.
Her unique physical traits — such as her large eyes and distinctive facial features — which she used to great effect in portraying complex, often eccentric characters. Her performances in films like The Shining and Popeye showcased how unconventional beauty could be both compelling and integral to a character’s depth. Her prominence in major films helped to broaden the representation of beauty on screen, allowing for a wider range of physical appearances to be seen as desirable and impactful.
Annie Lennox: 80s Androgyny
Eurythmics’ Annie Lennox embraced gender fluidity and androgynous styles of the 1980s. Her sharp suits and unconventional looks challenged traditional gender norms in fashion. Lennox’s bold choices have influenced both the music and fashion industries, contributing to the acceptance and celebration of diverse gender expressions. Lennox’s look often featured sharply tailored suits, wide-shouldered blazers, and crisp white shirts — which played with traditional masculine and feminine elements, blurring the lines between them. Her short, slicked-back hair and bold eye makeup accentuated this androgynous aesthetic.
Lennox’s style would go on to inspire numerous fashion-forward creatives to explore non-binary and gender-fluid expressions. Today, Lennox continues to use her platform to highlight various human rights issues from raising HIV awareness to Palestinian liberation.
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