The term “ultra-thin” once referred to watches measuring under 10mm thick — a remarkable feature, as such svelteness embodies technical prowess, comfort, and style, all in one sleek package. That is, until brands such as Bvlgari began redefining thinness to mean tickers that are leaner than a coin.
Between 2014 and 2022, Bvlgari set eight records for thinness in categories such as the world’s thinnest automatic tourbillon, chronograph, tourbillon and chronograph, minute repeater, and even a perpetual calendar. This year, on its 140th anniversary, Bvlgari breaks its ninth with the release of the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, its thinnest watch yet at an astonishing 1.75mm thickness. This surpasses its predecessor and former record-holder, the Octo Finissimo Ultra of 2022, which measured 1.80mm. Bvlgari’s release is a fully realised watch, available in two versions, each limited to 20 pieces, and every piece is COSC-certified.
This laudable feat was the result of a collaboration between Bvlgari’s own watchmaking team and movement specialist Concepto. As with many previous watches of such perilous dimensions, the Ultra COSC uses its case back as the movement’s main plate. To achieve that extra tenth of a millimetre reduction in height, the entire architecture of the watch, from the case to its individual components, was re-engineered, leading to the filing of eight patents.
The BLV180 calibre operates at 4Hz and offers a power reserve of 50 hours. It comprises 170 components, each meticulously measured with 1/10-micron optical systems to ensure near-perfect dimensions. These components are assembled onto a tungsten carbide mainplate/case back, chosen for its exceptional hardness, density, and durability. The middle case, bezel, lugs, and bracelet are crafted from sandblasted titanium, contributing to the watch’s futuristic look.
Continuing the Ultra series’ modern aesthetic, the new model features a geometric pattern on the ratchet, replacing the QR code seen on the previous version. The watch’s back also includes a Data Matrix code, providing comprehensive information about the watch and its development, including images and videos. Even the dedicated presentation case is high- tech, allowing you to set and wind the watch with the touch of a button and a digital display.
In addition to the titanium model, Bvlgari has also released a platinum version. The gleam of the precious metal, combined with the blue PVD sheen on the regulator dials, gives this version a distinctly more formal appeal. Regardless of the choice, Bvlgari has once again showcased its boldness and innovation in pushing the boundaries of ultra-thin watchmaking, presenting a timepiece that is both technically impressive and stylistically striking.
Between The Lines
Celebrating the anniversary in a more playful manner are the new Octo Finissimo Sketch models, as Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Executive Director of Product Creation at Bvlgari Horlogerie, has his drawings immortalised on watch dials once more.
The first Sketch editions debuted in 2022 to mark the 10th anniversary of the Octo Finissimo collection, featuring hour markers, sub-dials, and the brand name whimsically doodled onto the faces of the Automatic and Chronograph GMT Automatic models. This year’s editions revisit these models with more intricate designs. The 40mm Automatic, available in steel or rose gold, showcases a drawing of the BVL138 movement’s back instead of a traditional watch face. Meanwhile, the 43mm steel Chronograph GMT features an open-worked view of the BVL318 movement.
The Automatic Sketch is limited to 70 (rose gold) and 280 (steel) pieces, while the Chronograph GMT Sketch is limited to 140 pieces.
Time Flies
The title holder for the world’s thinnest tourbillon watch in 2014 is back with three versions for fans of complicated skinniness. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Manuel is now available in rose gold or sandblasted titanium with black DLC. While the rose gold edition exudes straightforward elegance, the titanium model combines both sophistication and sportiness with its contrasting rose gold hands, chapter ring, and crown.
Meanwhile, the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic introduces a new 40mm platinum reference. Its skeletonised movement features a micro-blasted blue finish that complements the dark blue alligator strap. Both the hand-wound BVL 268SK and the automatic BVL 288 movements are just 1.95mm thick, maintaining their status as the thinnest tourbillon movements around.
Night Shift
All-black watches need a strong design language to make an impact — something Bvlgari’s iconic Octo Roma thankfully has. The Octo Roma Automatic and Octo Roma Chrono have both been given a monochromatic makeover with black DLC steel cases, black dials, and black straps. But to ensure readability, the indices and hands are coated with luminescent material.
The automatic model measures 41mm, is powered by the in-house BVL191 movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. The chronograph is slightly bigger at 42mm, houses the BVL399 calibre with the same autonomy, and is the first Octo Roma Chrono in a full black livery.
Despite the collection’s ancient architectural inspiration, the colouring and Clous de Paris textures on the dial, along with the rubber straps, give these watches a distinctly modern feel. An additional black alligator strap is also included and can be easily interchanged.
Seasonal Twists
Japanese architect Tadao Ando, who previously collaborated with the brand on the mesmerisingly minimalist Octo Finissimo editions in 2020 and 2021, now brings his creative vision to the Serpenti Tubogas. Known for his deep respect for nature, Ando has designed four Serpenti watches featuring stone marquetry dials, each capturing the beauty of the four seasons.
“Natsu” reflects the sun-drenched foliage of summer with green aventurine and a bi-metallic yellow gold and steel case. “Aki”, the Japanese word for autumn, glows with the golden hues of tiger’s eye, matched with the warmth of its rose gold case. “Fuyu” pairs white mother-of-pearl with steel to echo the crispness of winter, while “Haru” uses a pink shade of mother-of-pearl and a steel and rose gold combination that evoke cherry blossoms in spring.
Haru and Aki are available exclusively in a 135mm twirl size, while Fuyu and Haru come in both 135mm and 145mm sizes. All watches are 35mm wide, equipped with quartz movements, and feature bezels set with 38 diamonds. They also have casebacks engraved with Ando’s signature and “Tadao Limited Edition.” The watches will be released over the next year, corresponding with the seasons and culminating in March 2025. Additionally, there will be 20 box sets that include all four creations.
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