Liquid Gold: Rolex Perpetual 1908 and the Art of the Settimo Bracelet

In the lexicon of Rolex, “Perpetual” has always meant more than just a rotor; it signifies an enduring legacy. When the brand introduced the Perpetual 1908 collection in 2023, it was not merely launching a new reference – it was reclaiming the dress watch territory with a masterclass in sartorial discretion. Now, for 2025, Rolex deepens that conversation, introducing a tactile evolution that transforms the 1908 from a leather strap-only affair into a showcase of gold-smithing virtuosity: the Settimo bracelet.

The headline for the 2025 collection is undoubtedly the introduction of the Settimo bracelet, debuted exclusively on the 18ct yellow gold model.

For decades, the mental image of a Rolex has been inextricably linked to the Oyster, Jubilee, or President bracelets. The Settimo enters this pantheon with a distinct personality. Composed of seven very small, slightly contoured link elements per row, it is a construction that prioritizes suppleness. The press materials describe it as having a “sparkle of reflected light,” achieved through fully polished surfaces that evoke the jewellery-inspired bracelets of mid-century vintage pieces.

On the wrist, this translates to a “liquid” gold feel – rarely has solid gold felt so light. Rolex has engineered the Settimo to be as supple as it is striking. The slightly contoured links are designed to hug the wrist gently, offering a level of comfort that rivals the collection’s original leather straps. Secured by a concealed Crownclasp, the bracelet maintains a seamless visual harmony, uninterrupted by visible hardware. A patent has been filed for the special attachment system that connects the bracelet to the middle case, ensuring the integration is both robust and aesthetically refined. Thus, the Settimo bracelet is a bold move that shifts the 1908 from a pure dress watch into a slightly more versatile, yet undeniably opulent, territory.

The case itself retains the slender and sophisticated proportions that defined the inaugural 1908 models. The 39 mm case is crafted from 18 ct yellow gold and features the collection’s signature divided bezel: the lower part that meets the case is embellished with elegant fluting, while the upper part that meets the crystal is domed. Cases are slim at 9.50 mm but also robust, being waterproof to 50 metres.

While the yellow gold model flaunts the new metalwork, the 950 platinum reference offers a masterclass in dial-making. This version features an ice blue dial – the signature colour of Rolex platinum watches – but with a texture that demands a loupe to fully appreciate. The dial is finished with a guilloché rice-grain motif, a geometric pattern that radiates from the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. This is not just a flat stamp; it is a three-dimensional landscape. The minute track is bordered by a filet sauté with a crimped pattern, adding layers of depth to the display.

For those preferring the warmth of 18ct yellow gold or the stealth of 18ct white gold, the collection continues to offer intense white and intense black dials with a fine satin finish, maintaining the “simplicity and purity” that defined the collection’s launch. The display adheres to the collection’s classic layout, featuring Arabic numerals at 3, 9, and 12, faceted index hour markers, and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock. The hour hand features a Breguet-style open circle, while the minute hand is shaped like a two-edged sword, blending contemporary readability with vintage charm.

Beating inside the new 1908 is the calibre 7140, a self-winding mechanical movement developed and manufactured entirely by Rolex. The Perpetual collection features a transparent sapphire case back, allowing wearers to admire the movement’s exclusive decoration. The bridges are finished with Rolex Côtes de Genève, a variation on the traditional decoration that adds a polished groove between each band.

Technically, calibre 7140 is in a class of its own. It features the Syloxi hairspring in silicon and the Chronergy escapement in nickel-phosphorus, making it impervious to magnetic fields. The oscillating weight is made of 18 ct yellow gold and openworked, ensuring the view of the movement is not obstructed. With a 66- hour power reserve and Superlative Chronometer status, it proves that elegance does not require a compromise on performance.

On that note, like all Rolex watches, the Perpetual 1908 has earned the aforementioned Superlative Chronometer certification. Redefined by Rolex in 2015, this designation attests that every fully assembled watch has successfully undergone rigorous in-house testing.

Rolex tests the cased watch to ensure precision within -2/+2 seconds per day – significantly stricter than standard Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute requirements. This automated testing protocol also verifies waterproofness, self-winding capacity, and power reserve to simulate real-life wear conditions. The status is symbolised by the green seal accompanying every watch and includes an international five- year guarantee.

This story was first seen as part of the WOW #82 Festive 2025 Issue

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