As Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 came into focus, it seemed likely that chronographs would be a big part of any story that emerged from the halls of the Palexpo. Rolex teased a new chronograph in a pre-release video and that alone made the recorder of elapsed time a clear favourite at the start line. Well, now we know! Before we get to that all-new Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master II – only the second chronograph reference in the current catalogue – we must address the news of what is no more. The popular GMT-Master II “Pepsi” is what is no more, just as a variety of sources speculated on. All versions, not just the steel one, are gone. We remain hopeful that, just like the Yacht-Master II, this change is temporary.
As a bit of an aside, this author is somewhat dismayed by the rush to update websites by midnight on the first day of the fair as he expects the eventual introduction of a Day Zero. But, to start on a positive note, it is also nice to begin the day without having to fight through a scrum at the Rolex booth…and Patek Philippe too. Speaking of which, the tribute to the Nautilus takes the form of a clock… In any case, there is enough good news to start Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 with all the lovely chronograph pieces. We will not even get to the Rolesium Daytona or any Patek Philippe pieces here, but yes those all exist!
Beyond Rolex, we also received news from TAG Heuer and Parmigiani Fleurier about all new chronographs that are much more than window dressing. While we do, or will, have posts about both these very impressive watches, here are our first impressions of both, starting with the TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph. Once famously dedicated almost exclusively to the chronograph, TAG Heuer – or Heuer really – is certainly a big deal in the world of this complication. In fact, the brand is such a powerful presence here that we – and everyone – were surprised to be reminded a couple of years ago that Heuer had never before made a split-seconds chronograph. Little did we know what the LVMH firm had in store for us.
The TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph builds on that split-seconds chronograph and even tops it this year. Channelling the brand’s inventive spirit, as exhibited by the belt-driven Monaco V4, the watchmakers have rethought and reinvented the chronograph. With a little help from Vaucher, TAG Heuer has bid adieu to most of the signature mechanical chronograph elements, including a host of levers, cams, clutches and even the column wheel. Crucially, it is still mechanical! In short, the Evergraph is the chronograph that we all never knew we needed – now to get to grips with how it actually works…
Speaking of Vaucher, Parmigiani Fleurier’s movement maker is having a banner chronograph year because the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux also present an all-new vision for the complication. While the good folks at TAG Heuer keep most of the clever thinking under the dial, Parmigiani Fleurier opted to reinvent how the chronograph looks.
Just as it did with the GMT feature, the Fleurier firm keeps the chronograph hidden under the guise of a simple three-hander. Yes, that means there are really five hands here, not three. Incidentally, there are no less than three clutches here, one vertical and two horizontal.
For a little more than chronographs, we are looking forward to seeing the Hermes booth, which has its own opening ceremony, and the capsule collection from Chanel, which this year is themed on games. Appropriately enough, it is called the Chanel Coco Game and it looks like a lot of fun. For now, the serious business of time marches on!
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