Anniversaries are always important for traditional watchmakers and there are two big ones this year. First, Rolex celebrates the 100th anniversary of the monumental Oyster Perpetual collection with three watches, the Oyster Perpetual 41, and the Oyster Perpetual 28 and 34. While the Oyster Perpetual 41 is the star, the lacquer dials of the green and blue Oyster Perpetual 28 and 34 models (respectively) are very fetching. Meanwhile, Patek Philippe has a slew of limited production Nautilus time-only models to pay tribute to the 50th birthday of that revolutionary family of watches.
Both these moves are notable since Rolex rarely pays attention to anniversaries (once again setting itself apart from its peers) while Patek Philippe actually discontinued the time-only Nautilus in 2021. On that note, perhaps the biggest news from Watches and Wonders Geneva this year is the discontinuation of the popular Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II with red and blue bezel (affectionately known as the Pepsi).
TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph
Beyond Rolex, TAG Heuer introduced the Monaco Evergraph, pushing the boundaries of the chronograph. Historically central to the brand, the complication is reimagined here with the support of Vaucher. The Evergraph departs from traditional chronograph architecture, eliminating components such as levers, cams, clutches and even the column wheel, while remaining fully mechanical. Building on its earlier split-seconds innovation, this model represents a fundamental rethink of how a chronograph functions.
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux
Speaking of Vaucher, Parmigiani Fleurier’s movement maker is having a banner chronograph year because the Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux also present an all-new vision for the complication. While the good folks at TAG Heuer keep most of the clever thinking under the dial, Parmigiani Fleurier opted to reinvent how the chronograph looks.
Instead of reworking the internal mechanics alone, the brand focuses on visual minimalism. The chronograph is concealed beneath what appears to be a simple three-hand display, though the watch actually features five hands. With a combination of one vertical and two horizontal clutches, the technical complexity remains hidden beneath a restrained exterior.
Celestial Complications and Technical Depth
Patek Philippe Ref. 6105-001G
Patek Philippe’s Ref. 6105-001G is classified as a grand complication; it introduces several firsts for the brand, including sunrise and sunset indications and the ability to account for daylight saving time. The 47mm case accommodates a rotating night sky display calibrated to Geneva, reinforcing both its scale and technical ambition.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5840P-001 (Cubitus Perpetual Calendar)
Patek Philippe Ref. 5840P-001
Also from Patek Philippe, the Ref. 5840P-001—known as the Cubitus Perpetual Calendar—stands out for its shaped movement and skeletonised automatic calibre with micro-rotor. While visually striking, it maintains the brand’s signature finishing. Alongside it, a lesser-publicised reference revisits a heritage pocket watch concept with an automaton-based hours-and-minutes display, combining technical complexity with a more playful execution.
Grand Seiko SBGZ011 “Mystic Waterfall”
Grand Seiko’s SBGZ011, nicknamed “Mystic Waterfall,” highlights artisanal craftsmanship. Fully hand-engraved across its surface, the watch is powered by the manually wound Spring Drive calibre 9R02 from the Micro Artist Studio. Limited to 50 pieces, it continues the brand’s tradition of nature-inspired design, referencing the Tateshina Otaki waterfall while emphasising fine finishing and texture.
High Complications Return to Focus
IWC ProSet Perpetual Calendar
IWC introduced the ProSet perpetual calendar, a significant development in high complications. Building on its historic single-crown system, the new mechanism allows for both forward and backward adjustments — addressing a long-standing limitation. The removal of the traditional grand lever marks a key technical shift, positioning this as a major evolution in perpetual calendar design.
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune
Van Cleef & Arpels presented the Midnight Jour Nuit Phase de Lune, combining a 24-hour display with a moonphase complication. The entire dial rotates over 24 hours, with the moonphase integrated into the animation. Uniquely, the moon can be obscured by the guilloché section, with an on-demand pusher at 8 o’clock revealing the full display without affecting accuracy. The piece reflects the brand’s narrative-driven approach to watchmaking while maintaining technical sophistication.
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