Many of the world’s most celebrated jewellery houses like Bvlgari and Buccellati are Italian and known for their unwavering commitment to craftsmanship and timeless elegance. However this is no coincidence, these brands as well as many other Italian jewellers have a firm foundation in traditional Italian craftsmanship and the use of Italian gold.
A piece of Italian gold jewellery — while at first glance is undeniably opulent — represents much more than what meets the eye. These pieces embody centuries of tradition, generations of skilled artists and a testament to the dedicated hands that have brought the precious metal to life. The enduring appeal of Italian gold is in Italian jewellers’ dedication in preserving and paying homage to the craft, heritage and the skilled artists that came before them. Furthermore, each brand’s love and respect for Italian gold is displayed though ancient techniques, references to classic styles and meticulous attention and dedication to artisanal craftsmanship.
The History of Italian Gold
The country of Italy holds the title as the most well-known ancient empire as well as the most celebrated and plentiful gold producers in the world. Best known for the impeccable quality of gold, its origins date back to ancient Rome, with the Etruscans around 700 BC, who saw gold as a symbol of wealth and status, much like ancient Egyptians. The jewellery worn by affluent ancient Romans were lavish and over-the-top, often incorporating the influences from different cultures including the styles of Europe, Egypt, Asia, other parts of the Mediterranean, most notably styles from Greek Mythology.
This mix of inspirations resulted in jewellers of this era experimenting with different techniques and embellishments to harmoniously mesh a variety of styles together. Furthermore, the possession of Italian gold was often used to display a status of power, wealth and sometimes a conquest. As per Jack Weir & Sons, “in 361, Roman dictator Titus Malius challenged a Gaul to a single combat and in defeat, took his torc”. This lead to torcs being awarded to soldiers after brave acts in battle and as a result, the distinctive decoration became a symbol of the elite and victorious. Ancient Romans wore gold in a multitude of ways in the forms of amulets, talismans, bracelets, necklaces and earrings, which functioned as protection from the evil eye or malice intent. It is also worth noting that many of these designs had imprinted shapes resembling animals and coiling snakes to symbolise immortality and fertility — a motif used frequently in jewellery houses till this day.
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After the fall of the Roman Empire, jewellery and other gold adornments were primarily crafted in cathedral treasuries and or imperial courts. This meant that the majority of opulent gold jewellery were intended for religious rituals and figures, other metal craftwork was only done for household items. By the renaissance era, the demand for Italian gold grew quickly, thanks to the emergence of the new Italian middle class population. Additionally, wealthy Roman families would also fund trained goldsmiths to craft gold jewellery pieces that were large, grand and heavily embellished with gemstones and religious merits — believing that they were performing God’s work by creating something beautiful. As wealth began to trickle down from affluent families to the middle class population, Italian gold became a thing of desire and demand rapidly rose due to its representation of high societal status.
During this period of high demand, goldsmiths became incredibly skilful, with artistic skills believed to be on par with Italian renaissance painters, sculptors and architects, as per Mountz Jewellers. Another factor worth noting is that the renaissance era had seen a massive comeback of jewellery, prompting many European countries to hold contests to outdo each other on adornment, creating a phenomenon that resulted in a dramatic boost in demand for jewel embellished gold pieces.
What is So Unique About Italian Gold?
Italian gold pieces have remained popular throughout history, most notably gold chains. Italian jewellers were the first to master the art of making gold chains that were durably and intricately crafted. According to Lillicoco Antique Jewellery, the chain motif dates back centuries, with ancient origins founded at archaeological sites of ancient Ur and Uppsala. This later translated into wearable items as jewellery making become innovative and modernised. Furthermore, it has been said that Italian goldsmiths used chain motifs to glamourise and embellish Catholic rosaries to compel more people to wear them. Regardless of intention, Italian gold chains have transcended centuries and is cemented in the jewellery industry to to the exceptional durability, quality and rich colour.
Thanks to the rich heritage of gold craftsmanship, Italian jewellers are renowned for their unmatched creativity and artistry, often using Italian gold as a base for innovative mechanisms and artful designs. Italian gold is often prized for its purity — typically 18K or 22K — which gives it a rich, distinctive colour. The precious metal is also strictly regulated by Italian laws, ensuring consistently high-quality products that are in contrast, with international gold markets, is more pure and more valuable.
That being said, Italian gold continues to have high demand across Europe, the U.S., and Asia. Italian gold exports and hold a significant portion in the luxury market. Despite ever-changing trends, Italian gold jewellery remains an unwavering staple in both high fashion and everyday wear thanks to its durability, natural beauty and the artful innovation of Italian Jewellers. Ahead, LUXUO has gathered a list of renowned Italian jewellers that continue to innovate while maintaining traditional Italian gold craftsmanship.
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Bvlgari
Bvlgari is one of the most celebrated jewellery brands in the world and is known for being exceptionally innovative and luxurious. Founded in Rome 1884 by a Greek Silversmith named Sotirio Bulgari, the brand was previously known for their designs in silver, given the founder’s profession. Later in the 1920s, Bulgari started to emulate the opulent classic french styles of Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, and in 1940s, the brand embraced their Roman heritage and incorporated significantly more Italian yellow gold. Bvlgari is unmatched when it comes to blending tradition with innovation, having invented the Tobogas design technique which is characterised by interlocking gold strips that form a flexible tubular structure. A technique that gave the world the iconic Serpenti collection.
Buccellati
Buccellati was founded in the 1920s by Mario Buccellati, also referred to as “The Prince of Goldsmith”. The brand is known for having intricate designs, textural gold jewels and silverware, inspired by Italian Renaissance and Venetian lacework. The brand’s hallmark is its detailed engraving and texturing techniques that give its jewellery a distinctive, antique look. Despite the long-standing heritage of the brand, the company has maintained their stylistic identity and traditional ancient goldsmithing techniques. Italian gold is held in the highest regard for the brand, referring to it as “impalpable Italian fabric” to pay homage to heritage and the master goldsmiths that came before them.
Pomellato
Founded in 1967, Pomellato is known for introducing a modern approach to luxury jewellery while maintaining traditional techniques. Their spectacular pieces emphasise bold, colourful gemstones and unconventional cuts, with a focus on elegance. Pomellato goldsmiths use a pink gold and yellow gold to form a unique alloy which is later set with rare semi-precious gemstones using traditional goldsmith techniques. Pomellato is known for their unwavering commitment to the craft and heritage of Italian goldsmiths and works with the Milanese Goldsmith Institute to continue to hand down the exceptional craftsmanship and fundamental skills of artisan jewellers.
Damiani
Established in 1924 by Enrico Damiani an expert goldsmith, Damiani is a family-owned business known for its fine craftsmanship and unique diamond settings. Damiani’s collections often incorporate intricate detailing, making each piece a testament to Italian artistry and made by the master goldsmiths of Valenza.
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Roberto Coin
Roberto Coin is famous for their sophisticated designs and signature hidden ruby in each piece, that symbolises good luck and happiness. Similar to ancient Roman jewellers, the brand was inspired by the styles of ancient Egyptians, displaying their respect and fascination of Italian jewellery heritage. Established in Vincenza, an area famous for fine gold plating and custom designs, Roberto Coin has wide knowledge of traditional and classic styles of the past which are frequently incorporated into their pieces. Additionally, the brand is known for for their heavy emphasis on the “quintessence of Italian craftsmanship”, with each imaginative piece made at the hands of master craftsmen.
Vhernier
Vhernier is renowned for their modern, minimalist designs that focus on geometric shapes and bold, sculptural silhouettes. Vhernier was founded in 1984 at Valenza and was originally a goldsmith’s workshop. The brand has always operated with huge passion and love for Italian gold and extensive knowledge of gemstones to create pieces that are unconventional and contemporary. With Vhernier’s minimalist designs, they aim to draw focus to the master craftsmanship of the goldsmiths and the exceptional quality of their materials.
Marco Bicego
Marco Bicego’s jewellery is a “distinctly Italian” take on the Italian goldsmith tradition, in creating stunning pieces with skills passed down generations. The brand pays homage to their rich heritage, in emulating modern takes of classic Italian style, like multi-coloured gemstones and the ancient “millerighe” burin technique. Marco Bicego is famous for their ability to replicate organic forms found in nature in manipulating gold in to organic shapes and hand-engraved textures. The brand primarily focuses on creating pieces that feel both luxurious and understated, blending tradition with modern design.
Pasquale Bruni
Pasquale Bruni founded his namesake brand in 1968 at just 20 years old, in Valenza, the “City of Gold” which has a long-standing tradition of jewellery making that dates back centuries. The family-run brand was established in known for its romantic, nature-inspired designs that feature floral and celestial motifs. All pieces are made with 750 parts of fine gold, meaning 18 carats. To achieve the warm colour of Pasquale Bruni’s gold, yellow gold is alloyed with silver and copper. Additionally, Pasquale Bruni’s experiences craftsmen meticulously set gemstones in delicate yet bold arrangements, to appear as a “sheer fabric of shimmering stones”.
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