Fashion’s gothic sensibilities have consistently used the colour black as a powerful tool for storytelling — symbolising mystery, rebellion, and emotional depth. From Alexander McQueen’s fascination with dark motifs to Rick Owens’ avant-garde silhouettes, black transcends its association with mourning, becoming an emblem of subversive elegance. In 2024, designers like Robert Wun and Dolce & Gabbana reinterpret traditional widow’s attire, while Balenciaga explores dystopian narratives through black. Cinematic references like Wednesday and Beetlejuice continue to inspire, showing how fashion’s embrace of black remains a timeless expression of gothic allure.
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Fashion History & Modern Interpretations
While the influence of black in fashion has evolved, it can be traced back to various historical movements, including Victorian mourning attire, where the use of black conveyed societal attitudes toward death and grief. In the early 20th century, Coco Chanel transformed this association with the debut of the “Little Black Dress” redefining black as a versatile sartorial staple. Later, in the 1960s, Hubert de Givenchy’s creation for Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s cemented black’s transition from a symbol of post-war mourning to an emblem of timeless elegance.
Designers like Alexander McQueen revolutionised the interpretation of the grotesque with gothic fashion in the late 20th century, using black to delve into themes of life, death, and the human condition through dramatic silhouettes and intricate details. McQueen’s fascination with dark themes began with his 1992 MA graduation collection, Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, where he embedded locks of his hair in the garments, paying homage to Victorian customs. His Autumn/Winter ’96 collection dubbed Dante featured skeletons and was staged in a church, exploring themes of war and peace. In Joan (Autumn/Winter ’98), inspired by Joan of Arc, models walked amid swinging industrial lamps in armour and chain mail, with a climactic finale of fire encircling the runway. His Spring/Summer 2001 show, Voss, simulated a Victorian asylum with bandaged models and taxidermy birds, concluding with a glass case filled with moths surrounding a masked woman. Each show pushed fashion boundaries, blending historical references with visceral displays of haunting beauty.
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Fashion’s Rebels: Cutting-Edge VS Contemporary
Known for his dark motifs and theatrical runway shows, McQueen’s designs often reflect a gothic sensibility, using black to enhance the emotional narrative of his collections. His use of skulls and haunting imagery encapsulates the beauty in darkness. As an avant-garde designer, Rick Owens frequently employs black in his collections, utilising unconventional silhouettes that challenge traditional beauty standards. His designs often reflect a dystopian vision, using black to communicate a sense of rebellion and individualism.
Robert Wun and Dolce & Gabbana are two examples of designers who have reinterpreted traditional widow’s attire, blending historical references with modern aesthetics. Their use of black in bridal wear showcases the complexity of love and loss, redefining the narrative around mourning. Balenciaga on the other hand — under the direction of Demna — embraces dystopian themes, often featuring black to comment on contemporary society’s anxieties and the chaotic state of the world. This approach reinforces black’s status as a colour that transcends mere fashion, becoming a commentary on the human experience.
In Robert Wun’s Autumn/Winter ’24 couture collection, “Time”, the designer reflects on the abstract concept of time and space, using it to explore themes of life, decay, and the inevitable end. The finale turns toward mortality itself, with designs that reveal the human form decaying from skin to bones, culminating in a veiled gown symbolising the soul. Wun’s fascination with horror surfaces in intricate pieces like a 40-kilo “muscle” dress adorned with spiked beads, evoking the fragility of existence. The collection ultimately grapples with existential questions, embracing the beauty and finality of endings as a testament to his decade-long journey in fashion.
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Gothic Themes On The Silver Screen
Horror and fashion have always shared a fascinating connection. From the pop culture influence of 1968’s Rosemary’s Baby and 1987’s Hellraiser to Alfred Hitchcock’s 1963 film The Birds — which not only inspired Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer 1995 collection of the same name but also served as the visual foundation for Bottega Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2011 campaign — the impact of horror is woven into fashion’s fabric. Modern-day reinterpretations of iconic ’90s films like Beetlejuice and series like Wednesday (of The Addams Family) continue to shape the public perception of gothic fashion, highlighting a lasting fascination with dark elegance. These leading characters’ distinctive styles have revived and redefined the gothic aesthetic for contemporary audiences, breathing new life into its timeless appeal.
The fascination with female protagonists in campy horror films like 1992’s Death Becomes Her (later inspiring Sabrina Carpenter’s 2024 music video “Taste”) lies in their blend of dark humour, resilience, and over-the-top glamour, creating iconic characters who defy societal expectations. These roles showcase women as complex, unapologetically bold, and often immortal in their pursuit of vanity or vengeance, highlighting a fierce independence that resonates with audiences. By merging horror and comedy, they reclaim narratives around beauty, ambition, and mortality, transforming fashion into a playful yet powerful statement that encourages others to challenge conventions and embrace individual expression. This cinematic influence in fashion highlights a timeless allure where style is both armor and art, inspiring others to challenge conventions and celebrate individuality.
Sabrina Carpenter references DEATH BECOMES HER (1992) in her latest music video for “Taste” alongside Jenna Ortega. pic.twitter.com/AM1u18tzj6
— Film Updates (@FilmUpdates) August 23, 2024
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Black is Back
Fashion’s gothic sensibilities continue to thrive, with black serving as a versatile canvas for storytelling and self-expression. As designers innovate and reinterpret traditional motifs, black remains a powerful symbol of rebellion, mystery, and emotional depth, resonating across generations. The evolution of black and gothic themes in fashion and television signifies not just an aesthetic choice but a profound commentary on the complexities of modern life.
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