Another year passed and we are back at PalExpo for Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, Switzerland, to experience the latest novelties firsthand. We put the spotlight on TAG Heuer, Hermès, Tudor and Vacheron Constantin.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph
TAG Heuer unveils a new chapter of Jack Heuer’s vision for legibility with the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm at Watches & Wonders 2023. Though many design elements might appear familiar at first glance, a brand-new glassbox design takes the plaudits for the latest novelty. The modernised construction curves and flows seamlessly, wrapping around a newly designed curved flange. On the inner side lies the iconic minute track, while the tachymeter sits on the external side. Through brilliant engineering, there are little to no distortions caused by refraction when viewing the watch at all angles. This launch is headlined by two versions, a bi-compax and a tri-compax reverse panda execution. Both pieces riff on the iconic looks of the TAG Heuer Carrera yet appear resolutely contemporary thanks to astute detailings. Another major landmark is the evolution of the Calibre Heuer 02 housed in the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm. Unlike its predecessor, the calibre TH20-00 offers a bidirectional winding, a redesigned skeletonised TAG Heuer shield rotor and 80 hours of power reserve.
Hermès H08 Chronograph
After launching the multicoloured editions (green, yellow, blue and orange) of the Hermès H08, the French Maison followed up with introducing the Hermès H08 Chronograph. While the Hermès H08 was designed and intended as a sports watch, the Hermès H08 Chronograph takes a step forward in cementing its status. Incidentally, this marks the very first complication to be introduced to the Hermès H08 collection. Given how much emphasis Hermes has taken to retain the clean lines of the case, designing the Hermès H08 Chronograph as a monopusher proves to be a masterstroke. Much of the Hermès H08’s aesthetics remain in the Hermès H08 Chronograph — the composite case and titanium bezel play on materials and textures, while the clean execution of the chronograph counters ensures the dial remains neat.
Tudor Black Bay
This year, Tudor revisits the story of the Tudor Black Bay with the latest technical and aesthetic update. It is hard to imagine that it has been slightly over a decade (11 years to be exact) since the launch of the burgundy Tudor Black Bay, the model that single-handedly reinvigorated Tudor to what it is today. The Tudor Black Bay was launched in 2012 before it transitioned to using the Tudor Manufacture Calibre three years later. This Watches and Wonders marks the third chapter of the Tudor Black Bay with the introduction of the METAS-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5602-U and an all-new bracelet design. The former is Tudor’s latest push to expand its offerings with the METAS-certified movements that undergo even more stringent tests to ensure the highest levels of anti-magnetism, water resistance, power reserve and accuracy, while the latter makes this new Tudor Black Bay super sexy. Much of the original dimensions of the original Tudor Black Bay were retained except for a slimmer profile and subtle changes such as the introduction of the lollipop seconds hand.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding
Vacheron Constantin is the watch industry’s latest candidate to take on genderless watches with the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-winding. For a manufacture founded in 1755, it is a bold move to present this androgynous collection considering the history and tradition it has upheld all these centuries. The collection is broadly categorised into two families — either a gem-set (35mm diameter) or non-set (34.5mm diameter) version, both in either pink gold or stainless steel. Given the reduced diameters, Vacheron Constantin gave the collection a slimmer and more ergonomic silhouette, giving them a balanced and slender appearance. Aesthetically speaking, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-winding takes point from its emblematic older brother. The manufacture’s iconic blue sunburst dial appears in three of the four models, while the gem-set stainless steel piece features a subtle pink sunburst dial.
This article first appeared on Men’s Folio Singapore.
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