Sean Qualls breaks down a big subject in an enjoyable way in Fros, Fades, and Braids: A Brief History of Black Hair in America, an illustrated middle grade book about the history of Black hairstyles. He opens with brief biographies of some foundational figures in Black entrepreneurship: Madam C.J. Walker and Annie Malone, who both built empires on Black beauty products, and Garrett Morgan, who, along with inventing the three-way traffic light and the gas mask, also accidentally developed a hair-straightening formula.
Morgan’s invention offers Qualls the opportunity to reflect on the racist foundations of the notion that to be considered “good hair,” Black hair had to be straight, and he touches briefly on several other hairstyles that have been adopted by African Americans over the years, from Afros and locs to braids and Jheri curls. In many cases, he includes stylized portraits of Black celebrities who sported variations on each style.
Throughout, the multimedia artwork is created using strong, bold colors and (appropriately enough) a variety of rich textures. The energetic typography used for headings is especially noteworthy. Qualls includes affirmations about the centrality of barbershops and hair salons to Black community life, and he encourages young Black readers to fearlessly adopt their own sense of style and individuality. For readers who don’t have first-hand experience, however, Qualls also offers some advice about touching Black people’s hair: “Don’t Do It!”
As the book’s subtitle suggests, this is indeed a brief history, and one that barely scratches the surface of this rich and complicated topic. At times, this approach can feel cursory or rushed, but with any luck, Fros, Fades, and Braids will encourage readers and their grownups to seek out additional stories and sources about the history of Black hair and its relationship to Black culture and self-expression.